The primary purpose for this is to route tank water to a sump to house your equipment out of sight, however that is just one of the benefits. An aquarium overflow does exactly what it sounds like, it allows water to overflow out of the tank. I would continue to use the 2x.75" lines in each overflow as a return from sump to the tank (pressure side of the pump). The key to a good aquarium overflow design is ensuring that water flow is as silent as possible. If I add an additional wet to each one then it becomes a Bean. My thought was I would use the existing 1.5" drains for emergency overflows and add the full siphon drains (1", 1.25" or 1.5") to each overflow. An overflow box is designed to catch the displaced water from your aquarium as water comes back from the sump. Then ever so slowly, close it down until just a trickle works its way into the. But to do that I need to have an emergency drain. For the bean animal, you have a full siphon drain with a ball valve, overflow drain that handles the little bit of extra, and an emergency drain correct Try opening the ball valve all the way on the full siphon line to the point where it is sucking in air. So I decided I wanted to rework everything and go to full siphon drains. Been running Beans for years and as mentioned: the drains should terminate just below the waterline in the sump, but some people run their open channel slightly lower than the full siphon or vice/versa I personally have never had any issues running both at the same level into the sump but there. When I did my initial plumbing and leak test I could get the durso's quiet but the drains in the sump where very noisy & full of bubbles (which will cause salt creep). Since this tank is bottom drilled, it means I have a lot less play in getting the plumbing connected under the tank, through the wall, and having enough elevation to meet the height of my 40B sump without going down then back up. ![]() However, aside from the noise, that could be a good indicator the emergency line is active (while it is supposed to be dry/inactive). I am running into a problem trying to figure out how I am going to plumb the drains though. 75" returns are up close to the front of trapezoid close to where the sides meet it. Keep in mind it will be a bubbly overflow line, so if you terminate it over your return pumps, they will pump more bubbles into your display. And then if you like it, you can paint it black and build your sump while the paint cures and then put it all in place. ![]() Make it, dryfit and test into tank you get for sump. ![]() The 1.5" drain is about dead center in the trapezoid and the 2x. King of DIY, has good overflow setup with pvc that doesnt use siphon it uses held volume/pressure. The overflows are shaped like an Isosceles Trapezoid with the long side being part of the back wall of the aquarium. Each overflow has a 1.5" durso drain and 2 x.
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